Sunday, May 10, 2009

First goodbyes

With all but one final behind me, I begin the last six days of my time in Greece. I went to church at St. Paul's Anglican Church for the last time today, and it was hard. I have never seen people try to smile but be crying with regards to me, other than my mom. These are people I met 4 months ago. Due to important guests at the service (a couple of bishops for England and the secretary of the Archbishop of Canterbury), nothing happened to say goodbye during the service. Apparently I was also spared this by not saying something about me leaving to one of the women at the church before the service started. Afterwards, I went and started saying goodbye to people. Linda, the woman I was working with on the children's programming, was the first person for me to say goodbye to. It just avalanched from there. When I went to say goodbye to Father Malcolm, he had everybody fellowshiping be quiet as he said goodbye and announced that I was leaving. I turned red and couldn't help grinning to know that apparently I made some sort of a difference here. Amid tears, hugs, double cheek kisses, a person to look up on Facebook, and promises to keep in touch, I said my last goodbyes and left St. Paul's for the last time. That was one of the hardest goodbyes I have ever had to do. These people acted as a church home away from home. They took me in and made me part of them. And, now, I am leaving them and likely never coming back. If I ever do come back, few of the people I knew would still be there. It is the most final goodbye that I have had to make in a long time. If this is anything like what it is to leave a church as a pastor, I do not envy those who are already doing it. This, will have to be one of the hardest things I will do in my life: saying goodbye to the church that has brought me into their home. At least in future churches, there is a possibility that I will still see some of the people. That consolation doesn't exist here. Even though I have made friends here at school, it is nothing compared to some of the connections I made at that church. I worshiped with them, prayed with them, taught children with them, and now I am leaving them. I have the mixed emotions of wanting to see all these people and work with these people and wanting to go home. I just hope someday that I can thank them for all they have done for me, but I wish that I had not needed to have this taste of leaving a church so soon.

Tuesday is my last final, in Orthodox Church, followed by a short trip to Meteora. On Thursday night we have the farewell dinner, and I will be singing the Hokey Pokey in Greek with my Modern Greek class. Friday I head to the airport hotel, and Saturday I get on the plane and arrive home. Time is almost up. I have many goodbyes left, and soon I will get to be home. I can understand why people kiss the tarmac, but I think I will skip that one.

See you all soon!!!

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Wrapping up

1 week and 6 days left. The semester is wrapping up, and I will be back in less than two weeks. Not much exciting has happened recently, but it has been rather eventful.

Two Wednesdays ago, for my Orthodox Church class, we went to my prof's church for the vespers service for the Feast of St. George. His church is named after St. George, so this was quite a big celebration. One of the bishops of Athens was there and there were, by my count, at least 11 priests. Some of them, some of the time, wore black hats with a trail half-way down their backs. Asking later, we found out that these were the celibate priests. The bishop made an impression on us. He has a white beard and quite a jolly smile. I leaned over to one of my friends, Tom, and said, "He looks like Santa Clause!!". Tom laughed and informed me he was thinking the same thing. He looked like such a nice jolly man who might easily laugh with a ho ho ho. After the service, there was a procession of the icon of St. George around the block, with all of us following. There was a marching band and everything. After the service, when our prof let us ask questions, we met the bishop who came over and his first reaction was "Christ is Risen", which some of us responded to in English and some in Greek. That was fun. We had snacks (they don't have donuts, but little finger foods which were very Greek and very good). We were given a tour of the church, and had the opportunity to look into the altar area and see all the priest's vestments piece by piece put on our prof. I cannot imagine having that many vestments. Some of the pieces are for a reason that they do not know and they keep simply because of tradition. I like the simplicity of our one stole, but their vestments are so beautiful. They have to be crazy hot, though, and his movement is restricted. He has prayers that he says with each piece, and when he was ordained, the bishop said the word "worthy" with each piece and dressed him.

Last week was a busy week with 2 papers and two tests. This week will have 3 tests and one presentation, and next week is my final test. One of my paper's last week was on the comparison of the service of ordination for elders in the Orthodox and United Methodist Churches. We have many of the same elements, just done in different ways. The major difference is that we have traditions from John Wesley and they invoke specific saints.

The reason for so many tests is that in Ancient Greek, he decided that instead of one final we would have three small tests. two are over translation and one is scanning for rhythm. The scanning was easy, and I suppose that the first translation one was fine, but I will be glad when tomorrow's test is over and done. Wednesday my presentation is for Modern Greek and has to be 5 minutes. We are doing a skit, and the hardest part will be memorizing it. It should be a lot of fun, though.

Well, I should get back to studying, and I will send out another update before I head home.

See you all soon!!!!

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Spring Break

Spring break was last week from two fridays ago to yesterday. It was a good time, and now I have less than a month until it is time to come home. 3 weeks and 4 days, by my count.

Mom, Dad, Leanna, Angie, Aunt Sandi, and Grandma Gerry all arrived in Greece on Wednesday, but I did not see them until Friday (Good Friday). Church was at noon, and I met them shortly after. The afternoon was spent at the National Archaeological Museum, where I finally saw some pieces I missed the first time I went. They were apparently overwhelmed by the whole thing, because there is quite a lot in there. We went to Nafplio that night, where we spent the entire week. On Saturday, we got up and went to the market. That was a lot of fun, and we bought ingredients so I could cook a Greek dinner for them. This involved mad scrambling and strange phone calls to discover what mint is called. We also bought 3 kilos of strawberries, half of which were gone by the time we got back to the apartment. That afternoon we went to Epidaurus, which I quite enjoyed. The last time I went, I was not given enough time, and this time I saw things that I ddn't even know was there. Angie stood at the bottom of the theatre, and everybody sitting in the seats got quiet and listened. It was cool to hear the acoustics, and it was cool to hear her sing.
Sunday was Western Easter, and we went back into Athens to go to church. The church was quite literally packed, and we had a children's program during the sermon. That was a lot of fun. We took the kids out and told them the story of Holy Week and told them that we are going to the tomb to see Jesus' body and put spices there. Most were genuinely surprised to find the tomb (actually a tool shed) with no Jesus in it. Then we had a couple of angels show up. When we brought the kids back into the church, Father Malcolm asked them what they found, and one little girl pipes up and says...there was nothing there!!! That was a lot of fun. That afternoon, we went to the Acropolis. I am ashamed to say that this was my first time up there. It was actually a let down. I guess looking at it for 3 months, I just expected more. There was scaffolding covering half of the Parthenon, and rubble was everywhere. Angie and Leanna did get a kick out of seeing the Muses on one of the other temples, and they started singing a song from Hercules.
Monday, we went to Delphi. It was just as amazing the second time around. I didn't take many pictures this time, because I got most of those the first time. I just walked it and enjoyed it. This was the place where we were given 20 minutes on the site, we spent 2 hours on site last week.
Tuesday we headed to Corinth and Mycenae. Corinth is one place that I had not yet visited, and it was nice. However, after seeing Delphi, it was nothing. It was one place that was flat enough for Grandma to walk and see the whole thing, and it was the last place I will go to follow Paul. Mycenae was fun, just as I remmebered, and the weather was even the same as the first time. Rainy. But we did get a picture with the whole family in front of the Lion's gate. That night we went back to Nafplio a little early, and I cooked dinner. I made soutzoukakia, which is meat balls in a red sauce. We also had tzatziki and fried pitta bread. It turned out pretty well, though I accidently made twice as much as we turned out to need.
Wednesday we took a boat to Hydra and Spetses. The islands were beautiful, and I may have to do something like that again before I leave Greece. On Hydra, we took a donkey ride. It was fun, but it was a five minute ride in a circle around the block for 10 euros. They grabbed 4 of us, put us on donkeys, and led us away, while we tried to tell them that they left Aunt Sandi, Dad and Grandma behind. We did some shopping, and had some adventures on the freezing beach. More than anything, though, it was just gorgeous.
Thursday, we went to Sparta and Mystra. Sparta turned out to just be a city like any other. We knew that nothing was there, but we figured there would still be SOMETHING. We were wrong. Mystras was worth it all, though. It was Byzantine ruins built up a mountain. They were mostly ruins of monasteries, though there was one working monastery still there. It was quite a hike, but worth it. It was breathtaking. I can't even describe it, and pictures just cannot do it justice, but let me tell you...If you EVER go to Greece, take a day for Mystra. I thought it was even better than Delphi. Paintings remained within the churches, and it was just so different from what you normally see in Greece (meaning different from ancient ruins).
Friday we took a leasurly day in Nafplio and did some souvenir shopping. It was Greek Good Friday, so the bells were ringing all day. Three times during the day they rang for over an hour, and then there was the chanting. It just went ON and ON. The cathedral was right outside our apartment, so there was no escaping it. We thought it was bad when the bells went off at 7 every morning, but at least then they stopped after less than a minute. We were to the point that we were going crazy. Mom wanted to go tell them that Christ is Risen, so shutup. It was tempting. That night, they had services, and as part they brought decorated epitaphs for Jesus in a procession to the center of town from every church. We stood there with candles as the procession occurred. Each epitaph had pall bearers. They were highly decorated with flowers, and they all have an icon of Jesus on them. They were escorted by choirs, a marching band, a group of soldiers, and small children. People carried crosses and inscense. It was absolutely beautiful. After the procession was over, we left, because we couldn't see anything anyway. Everybody in the town was gathered in the square. Not long later, we heard the band again, and we went out to our balcony. From there, we watched as one of the epitaphs was brought back to the cathedral, with full ceremony. The marching band came, followed by the soldiers and epitaph. The band marched off, and the soldiers lined up to the epitaph was carried between them. Then they marched off. The bells started ringing again, and then there was chanting. It was 11:30 before any of us got to sleep.
The next morning, at 3:30, we woke and were out of the apartment by 4 to get them to the airport. We got all locked up, and Grandma informed us she left her dentures inside. We had to call the tour guide at 4 in the morning to come let somebody in to get it. They weren't even inside. In hindsight it is funny. They got to the plane and home with no issues, and I rode a bus back to Athens. I was in my apartment by 8:15 and aslep by 8:30. 8 hours later I woke, feeling quite refreshed. Don't worry, I was tired enough that it did not interfere with my normal sleeping schedule at all.
Sunday was Greek Easter. I went to my church then went out to get lunch. I was determined to have a traditional Easter meal. It consists of whole lamb rosted on a spit. They also have this intestine thing wrapped around some innards on the spit and roasted. I was brave enough for the lamb, but not the supposedly delicious intestines. My second easter in a week went on without a hitch, and after a day of homework, break has ended. All week I acted as tour guide in many places, which was fun. I also acted as translator, which was more fun. I will be glad to go home, but I have a lot of work to do before then.

See you in May!!

Χριστός ανέστη
Αληθώς ανέστη

Christ is risen...He is risen indeed!!

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Funny story from Modern Greek

So, I am going to tell a story on myself from today. We had a modern Greek test. I got done in about 15-20 minutes and went up to hand the prof my test. She gave me a look that said, you can't be done. I watched her face as she looked through my test nodding with the look that says "ok". At one point she makes the "you fell for it face" and hands it back to me explaining that there was a trap on the test. At one point we were to change everything in a sentence to plural. It said, a big juice of orange, so I changed it to big juices of oranges. She says orange should not be made plural. So I fixed that and handed it to her. She looked at it, and handed it back to me again shaking her head. So, I changed big and juices back to singular. She looked at it and handed it back to me again saying "don't get up until you figure it out". I just stared at it until finally she points out it is accusative. I had been making it nominative. So, the 4th time I turned it in, she nodded and kept it. Such are the perils of turning in my test first, because everybody else had the benefit of my mistake, so they did not make that mistake. By the end, I was bright red and giggling from embarassment, but at least I had the answer correct!! Now I just have to decide if on the next test we take I will wait until somebody else has turned it in first (spare myself the embarassment).

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

I'm back : midterms, Delphi, Olympia, and Thessaloniki

Sorry I haven't written in awhile. It has been an overly hectic couple of weeks. First we had midterms week (good and bad came of that), then we had a school trip, then we had a long break for Greek Independence Day when I went on my own trip and wrote a paper.

The school trip was to Olympia and Delphi, and a few small sites. We started out by going to some small ruins of a temple dedicated to something to do with the after life. This was when I discovered how miserable my weekend was going to be. My professor was terrible. She took us in, talked for a few minutes, then said, take five minutes and come back to the bus. Next we went to a monastery. She wasn't so bad there. It was cool to go into a church when there was nobody there and poke around a bit. I could see parts of the church that are normally closed on Sunday to all except the priest and other people in robes. Then we went to lower Delphi. She took us to the temple to Athena in lower Delphi, talked for about 10 minutes, and said "ok, let's go". We were given no time to take pictures or poke around. We got to our hotel 2 1/2 hours early because we did not spend the scheduled time at the sites. Luckily, the hotel was within walking distance of lower Delphi, so a few of us headed back and poked around.

The second day we got to the hotel only 2 hours early. We looked at the Delphi site and museum that day. She led us through about half the site (yelling at us for taking pictures while she was talking because we "would have time at the end"). Then, she gave us 20 minutes. It took us 15 just to get from where she said that to the top of the site. We then ran back down the hill and managed to get to the meeting point after 35 minutes. I was not happy. Once we left the site, we could not re-enter without paying. She took us over to the museum and led us through, then gave us an hour to look through a tiny museum, when we had seen everything in there. During her tour of the museum, she gave us wrong information (I counted twice, but there might have been more). On the site she gave us wrong information at least once that somebody caught. By this time nobody on the bus is happy. She read from a guidebook half the time and gave wrong info half the rest of the time.

The third day we visited Olympia. We saw the site and museum in the morning and were given the rest of the day to ourselves in Olympia. There is nothing to do in Olympia. Finally, the 4th day we got on a bus and headed back to Athens. We stopped at a museum for water power. We spent 15 minutes there. None of us could understand why we stopped there. It was the kind of place we do not enjoy because we are educated enough to already know everything we were told there. It is the kind of place they would take you in elementary school for a field trip, but it is not cool anymore when you have seen that kind of thing or read about that kind of thing for so long. Finally, we returned to Athens and we were free of this professor.

Then last week we had only a 2 day school week because Wednesday was Greek Independence Day. There was a military parade through the city. I went to see it. When they say military parade, they MEAN military parade. They basically paraded in front of us jeeps, tanks, helicopters, boats, guns, and the various branches marching. The only music was a band at the very end playing what I assume was the Greek National Anthem. The only colors were green, blue and white. I got bored, but the people around me were going wild with excitement.

That afternoon I hopped on a 6 hour train ride to Thessaloniki (in my pursuit of following Paul to as many places as possible). It was nice, but it was not exactly a thrilling place. There were some ruins and some museums, but everything closed at three. I went into one museum, in a tower built by the Turks. It was a whole history of Thessaloniki. Everything written was in Greek, but they gave me a listening device which basically read it all to me. That was pretty cool. I now know a lot about Thessaloniki history. And the top of the tower had an amazing view. And it was nice, because I did not have to pay to get in anywhere. The sites were free and the museums were free to students. In many ways, it was very like Athens. The food was a little more expensive (where I was), but it mostly had the feel of Athens.

Funny story, I was on the train on the way back to Athens studying my modern Greek terms. I was reviewing colors and there was one word I could not figure out at all. So I leaned across to the lady across from me and said in Greek Excuse me, what is green? Apparently she did not speak English, because she could not figure out how to answer me. She looked at me like I had lost my mind then started looking around confused. Finally somebody leaned forward and said "green". So think about that... how would you respond if somebody came up to you (who obviously speaks little English) and asks, "what is green?"

So, now I am back in school for a full week, for the first time since midterms. We have two full weeks then Spring break. I have gotten busy fast. I don't know where I will be spending time this weekend, but you can bet I will be making the most of my remaining time in Greece.

By the way, Greek coffee is difficult to make, but quite good once you get a hang of it. I doubt I make it very well, but I don't really know the difference :).

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Turkey Part 3 and Religions in Greece: From the old to the new to the strange

First I need to finish off my Turkey experiences for you. I think all I have left to tell you about is the Whirling Dervishes. I went and saw Whirling Dervishes. In short they are Muslim mystic monks, Sufis, who spin around in very tight controlled circles for a religious ceremony. In very broad terms, it is an act of union with God. It was pretty cool to see a ceremony that I have only read about or seen still pictures of. First the msicians played for about 20 minutes then the 4 dervishes came out. They were in black coats that they took off to reveal a completely white outfit with a black hat. As they spun, the skirts (yes men in skirts) rippled around them. I was sitting in the front, so bending down I could see their feet moving around and around in a prescribed pattern in one place. They never got dizzy and stumbled or lost their footing. Absolutely amazing to see. I recommend anybody go see a show, even if all you can see is a small one like the one I saw.

I came back to Greece with no mishaps. I was interested to see that people still dress up for plane flights in Europe. You could not tell the business travelers from the pleasure travelers. I even had the lady sitting beside me wish me a good flight. It was an experience that you don't get much, because people who are vacationing tend to dress very casually and comfortably on planes. I felt like I had been thrown back a few years to a time in planes that I have read about.

This Friday we had a school trip to Brauron and Sounion. I had Prof. Diamant, who I have heard many good things about. He is late 50s if he is a day, and wiry. Apparently he also chain smokes. Upon arrival at Brauron, he led us up a mountain forging a trail through high grass, flowers, bushes, and trees to a high point up a steep cliff where we sat on a rock as he gave us the introductory lecture for the sight. He wanted us to be able to see the topography of the region so we would understand how each ancient event took place. At Brauron is a Temple of Artemis, and many stories surround it. Brauron is situated in a valley, so we sat on this mountain and looked down into that valley to where wars were fought, drama took place, and people lived so many centuries ago. After sliding down the mountain (in some places quite literally sitting and sliding because it was steep) we went over to the temple. Of course we were compelled to do the Bear Dance upon our arrival. At least a modern silly version of it. In ancient times young prepubescent girls would dress like bears and dance in the temple of Artemis. We decided to emulate them.

Then we went to Sounion where we saw the Temple of Poseidon situated on a cliff. It is one of the few temples with no ceremony attached to it. Most likely, people would give statues there to get Poseidon to calm the waves, which are pretty strong as you round the cliff. We can see carved all over the temple names of people from a few hundred years ago who felt the need to leave their mark on the ancient temple. Unfortunately, because of a guard and a rope, we were only able to walk around the temple and not up into it.

This morning I attended a Greek Orthodox service for a paper I am writing for my Orthodox Church class. It was two hours of chanted and sung ancient greek with intermittent modern Greek spoken (the sermon I think) and a few processions. I walked into the church and my first reaction was for my jaw to drop. In some ways it is structured like any church I am used to. It is a square-ish room with pillars along both sides and seeting between the pillars and on the sides. There is an aisle down the middle, and a balcony (but I don't think anybody was up there). The altar was at the front, but it was behind a wall that spanned the entire front of the sanctuary. There was a door way about the width of the altar through which you could see the altar beyond the wall. Unless you were sitting in the middle, though, you would never see anything happening at the altar. The main shocking thing was the colors. Everything was gold. Absolutely everything. The altar cloth, the vestments of the priests, and the walls. Bright gold. There were icons and pictures everywhere all along the walls. Even on the domed and arched ceiling were paintings. I am used to the most ornate part of the church being stained glass windows and flowers at the front, not the walls. It was all I could do to not drop my jaw just looking around. There were low chandeleirs which lit the people well, but left the ceiling in mostly darkness, so the paintings up there were hard to see. For the entire service the cantor, choir, or priests were chanting and singing. Most of the "action" took place at the altar, behind the wall. It was hard to see, but there was a lot of crossing themselves and bowing. At one point I saw them shake a pillow. I have no clue what that was about. The people did a lot of standing and crossing themselves then sitting. Occaisionally the people would join in the singing, but not often.

At the end they had communion. It was not orderly at all. At one point in the chanting everybody just stands up suddenly and masses forward. There was no line but a crowd of people, almost like a mob, around the priests. They were given the wine with a spoon, and then I saw them come back with handfuls of bread. They had multiple huge cut up chunks of bread that they were munching on as they walked back. Most people just walked in right before communion and walked out right after. The service was over within a few minutes of communion.

At this point I ran to the Anglican church I have been attending. I got there halfway through the sermon. Church went as normal, and then after walking out and shaking hands with the priest I went over to the coffee--what would a church service be without a coffee time? I was then talked to by a couple of girls who looked to be in their mid-twenties. This is where the religion in Greece I referred to truly became strange. They started out sounding ok, but it turned weird pretty fast. They talked about God's love and how his love is in everybody's hearts. Then they moved to how no church or religion can give you answers about God. Then they moved to the only way to know anything about God is from within your own heart. God is only within you and only your "experiences" matter. Then they tell me that they go to churches and synagogues to tell people about this second coming of Jesus and this "religion of God" as they called it. Then they asked me if I wanted to convert. I told them I was just fine thank you. Basically they wanted everybody to throw out their beliefs and just base everything on experience. What kind of people go some another religion's place of worship and try to convert them? Do I go to a mosque and say "you are close but you aren't quite there. I know you just finished your Friday prayers but I am going to try to get you to convert here and now to another religion." Somehow I don't think that works very well and is very disrespectful. So I was a bit annoyed.

Now it is time to study for midterms. Tomorrow is Myth and Religion and Tuesday is Orthodox Church. See ya'll.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Turkey: the Good the Bad and the Creepy part 2

As a disclaimer, if you do not want to be lost I suggest you have read part one of the Turkey entry.

The decision to wear a headscarf worked well at night. I didn't really try it during the next day because I only had the morning before I left to return to Greece. Because I became good at ignoring people, I had very little trouble. Don't worry. I was never in any danger. I did not go anywhere alone with the men who tried to pick me up, and they never physically tried to get my attention. I received a lot of propositions, but because I turned all of them down and ignored many of them I was never in harms way.

Now, more of the good. In Istanbul I saw many amazing sights. First I went to the Topkapi Palace, where all the sultans lived. The walls were literally covered in mosaics, and it was splendor that you don't really ever see anywhere else. The jewels, which were thrones, scepters, headpieces, jewelry, swords, armor, and even a cradle made of precious materials and covered in huge diamonds and rubies and emeralds etc put the crown jewels in London to shame. It was absolutely amazing and gorgeous. I saw the harem, where concubines and wives lived, as well as where the Sultans lived. There was a section of the palace devoted to artifacts. Among them were some unlikely and others more likely. For instance, there were clippings of Muhammad's beard (believable) and Moses' staff (not so believable). David's sceptre and John the Baptist's arm were also among the artifacts. Swords of Muhammad's followers and companions also were presented. As I said, these artifacts varied in how believable they actually are.

After the Palace I headed over to the Blue Mosque and saw that huge mosque. They have 3 places for readers and of course areas for men then for women to pray. Lunch was followed by the Agia Sofia, which was gorgeous and huge. There were Byzantine mosaics upstairs that were just amazing, some of them were even fairly complete still. There was a lot left from when the Muslims used it as a mosque (more recently than it being used as a church). After finishing there, I went to the Grand Bazaar, which was a lot of fun and a flurry of activity. I heard after I returned that for a kiss on the cheek I could have gotten much lower prices. Don't think I would have taken advantage of that, but it is interesting to hear. The next day I went in a cistern which was huge and cavernous. It was beautiful and peaceful down there, and in the back were huge carvings of Medusa.

Well, I have to run to class, but I will finish this all up next chance I get.

See ya!

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Turkey: the good, the bad, and the creepy

First the good. As you know, I am in Turkey for the weekend. This included a flight to Istanbul, a bus overnight to Ephesus and Kushadasi, a bus overnight back to Istanbul, and tomorrow I fly back to Greece. It was a lot of work and a lot of money, but Ephesus was worth it. On that tour I saw the Temple of Artemis (that is one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient world), the traditional house of the Virgin Mary after the crucifixion (sketchy evidence that this is truely the place, but the Catholic Church seems to have accepted it, based on the many visits by Popes), historical Ephesus, and all that just before lunch. Ephesus was absolutely amazing. I stood in the theatre where Paul got in trouble. We did not make it over to where he was in prison due to running out of time. The ruins at Ephesus are the second best preserved ruins, after Pompeii. From the buildings all still standing, to the evidence of amazing pillars, to ancient public toilets it was all so absolutely amazing. I was pretty much gaping the whole time I was walking around with my guide. Lunch was a traditional Turkish meal (included in my tour price), then I was shown Turkish carpets. I was shown how they are spun, naturally died, and hand woven. Then they sat me down in a big room, brought me a turkish coffee, and started spreading them out at my feet. Carpet after amazing beautiful carpet was spread at my feet. I was afraid to touch them, but the lady told me to walk on them and touch them, in my shoes!! These carpets, even with frequent use will last for 300-400 years with little to show for it if they are taken care of. I ended up buying a little one for 250 dollars. Next we went to where they made traditional Turkish pottery. There I used a spinning wheel to make two pots. One is "Indiana style" and the other is a little more Turkish. I am pretty sure they were smashed down after I left, but I got pictures and fun memories. After all that my time was up, so they dropped me off in Kusadasi after helping me with my bus. I wandered around and generally took in the town before the bus was due to leave.

Then the creepiness started. I had my first marriage proposal and was too nice about trying to get away. I eventually managed to get away in a taxi to the bus stop. Today, when arriving in Istanbul, it was 7 AM when I got to the area I wanted to be at at 9. I started looking for breakfast and some guy led me to his restaurant. It was a very good breakfast, and he gave it to me for free, but he started asking me to go with him to see more of Istanbul tonight. He informed me we could get in his brother's car and go on a ferry to the Asia side. I got out of there as fast as I could, but accidently walked by again this afternoon and had to bow out as quickly as possible. Men just latch on and follow me. I was given a free Turkish tea last night at the busstop, and another one at lunch today, in addition to the 4 or 5 he kept bringing me at breakfast. One man walked me to the Blue Mosque and showed me around. He wasn't really that creepy, more nice, but he was an exception. I have had more offers for meals and tea and coffee than I can remember. They range in age from about 16 to 40. The blond hair and blue eyes attract them like a magnet. Next time I go out will be with a head scarf and sunglasses (until it gets too dark anyway).

Another bad thing was when I walked into a public restroom and found, not a toilet but a hole in the ground with platforms on either side for your feet. I turned around and walked right back out. Unfortunately this morning after being on the bus, that was my only option. Really awkward. Let me tell you, I was glad to get to tourist locations after that.

I will continue this in my next entry, because my internet time is about over.

Goodbye from Turkey!!

Friday, February 20, 2009

Mysteries of Modern Greek

Not much interesting has happened lately, but I can tell you of the joys of learning a new language. Learning Modern Greek in Greece is fascinating, because I can actually apply what I have learned in my every day life. For instance, the best place to practice numbers is the farmer's market. A good place to learn the difference between left and right is in my Aikido class. Aikido is also a good place to just hear Greek spoken, even if I have no clue what they said. Usually somebody speaks enough English to help me out, but occasionally the instructor will talk for 5 minutes straight about something, and I will have no clue what he is saying.

We had our second Modern Greek test this week and I did something a bit stupid. We were supposed to fill in the blanks in a dialogue between a kiosk ower and a customer. At one point the kiosk owner asks the customer meepos echete psila, do you have smaller money. What I put down instead was meepos echete philo, do you have a boyfriend. I guess he was being flirty.

I also accidently have told people that I don't speak English. Usually when that happens I have mixed up "I don't speak Greek" and "I speak English".

For the most part I am getting more used to speaking what Greek I can whenever I get the opportunity. I now know how to order in a cafe in Greek, and I am really getting quite good at the various words I need to order a gyro. I know chicken, pork, tzatziki, tomato, potato. But then I get thrown off whenevr somebody doesn't speak in complete sentences to me, because that is how I am learning. So, please, when speaking to somebody who knows little English... speak in complete sentences. Chances are they are learning in phrases rather than random words.

Tomorrow, I will try again for the Acropolis and next weekend is Ephesus and Istanbul. Don't worry, I will let you all know everything.

kalispera!

Sunday, February 15, 2009

The Argolid

We had our first school field trip from Thursday to Saturday. We went to the Argolid and saw quite a few different sets of ruins. I saw some obscure ones, and some that were amazingly cool. First we went to a set of ruins called the Argive Heraion. Those were a lot of fun, despite the rain, because there was no beaten path to see everything. We pretty much climbed over walls and down into valleys up and down a hill to see everything at our own pace. It was a lot of fun, mainly because it was my first real set of ruins. You could see where temples from different periods had been and even some pillars. Among the many other sites I saw on this trip was Mycenae. Mycenae has some amazingly preserved ruins. The gate is the most famous part. It is known as the lion's gate, because of the triangle tile placed over the mantel with big lions carved on it. It is famous, because it is the only gate of its kind with that tile part still preserved. Some of the stones which were dragged up that hill to build Mycenae, including the gate, were so big that it seems impossible that anybody could get them up there even with our modern machinery.

I also went to Epidaurus, which holds quite a lot on the site. One place is the theatre, the best preserved of its kind. They say that if someones stands in the middle and lights a match or drops a coin, someone at the top of the massive seating can hear it all. It is that acoustically sound. I was pretty annoyed when I was there, because my professor leading my group talked so much that I did not have a chance to hear someone drop a coin. I did watch another group doing the experiment, but I did not get the chance. At that site, she talked so much that we did not get the opportunity to really enjoy the site at all. At another place in the same site is an ancient stadium. I watched from above as another group ran a footrace down there, but my group was standing in some ruins of a temple listening to more lecture. It was pretty annoying that I was not even able to go down there, because we ran out of time.

We also visited the Palamides (sp?) which is on the top of a big hill above the town where we were staying. It was pretty cool, and the view was absolutely amazing. I wasn't really interested in the castle I was in, but the view was breathtaking. Once the bus crested the hill to park and let us out, we all saw the view and there was a collective gasp from everybody on the bus. As I got ready to leave on the bus I stopped to buy some oranges from a stand by the castle, and the man just handed me two oranges for free. They were delicious, and probably grown withing 5 miles of where I ate them. There were orange groves everywhere.

By the end of the trip, I was getting sick of looking at rocks piled on top of each other at a bunch of ruins that looked like one another, so a few more sites that we went to made little to no impression on me.

For the two nights we stayed in Nafplio. It really is a tourist town, but it was fun to be there. I also had some adventures there. On the first night I went out most of the evening and into the night with friends. We went out to dinner and I had rabbit for the first time. That was a lot of fun, except that our group grew to about 9 people, and the taverna we went in got taken over by us. You don't really see culture when you travvel in packs. That night we also spent some time in a cafe and I had my first cup of Greek coffee. I actually had two that night, which was a bad idea. I had one before dinner and one 4 hours later after dinner. I discovered my mistake when my heart pounded hard all night. I don't like coffee, but Greek coffee tastes nothing like American coffee, and it is pretty good. I also had some good gelatto. Nafplio is the place in Greece to get gelatto. The perks to it being a tourist town is that I got some good souvenirs, including worry beeds. Greeks walk around playing with worry beeds all the time, and they fascinate me. I always like to do something with my hands, so they are perfect. I bought some that were made of semi precious stones, bandid agate.

I also finally did my assignment for my Orthodox Church class to interview a Greek Orthodox person. I had to walk up to about 5 tables before I found somebody who spoke English, but when I finally did, he was a 34 year old father of young children. I found out that young adult christians in Greece are just like those in America. Very little difference. They think sermons are irrelavent, but they start going back to church when they have families, because they want their kids to know church. They also think that the priests are hypocritical, doing one thing and saying another. It was interesting to listen to him talk, and to see his obvious discomfort at saying anything against the church. But he did say it.

yia sas!

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Blog Title

I think today is as good a time as any to explain the title of this blog. If you are not aware, I am away from my usual school, DePauw University. I am studying in Greece this semester at College Year in Athens. I decided to create this blog so I wouldn't have constant e-mails asking me how things are going and where I have been. It was a convenient way to let everybody know what I am up to and how I am doing. It is also a good way to chronicle my trip. Therefore, the obvious reason for the title arises. I am traveling from home to a new place. I have traveled to Greece and will be in this country for the next three months, for a total of four months. The number 21 was to indicate that at the start of this blog I am 21 years old. People look forward to age 21 as a milestone. Alcohol is legal in the US. Insurance rates go down. You are no longer in that awkward middle ground between 18 and 21. In many ways, turning 21 fells like truly entering young adulthood from the awkward teenage adult stage. As the age 21 was a turning point, so is this trip. When a student studies in a foreign country for a semester, they change. I have seen people come back looking very different in imperceptable ways. So I chose the title to indicate that I start this blog at a turning point of my life. Doubtlessly at this time, I have no clue how big this turning point could turn out to be.

My second underlying reason for choosing the title is slightly different. I wish to be able to use this blog in the future, beyond my trip in Greece. I needed to choose a title which would reflect to the best of my ability at the moment something relevant to my life in the future. Traveler fit this, because I don't stop traveling just because I go home. People grow and change through their lives. Just looking back at my 21 years of life I can see how much of a journey it has already been. I look ahead to the next 70 to 80 and realize that there is so much of a journey left. In that time, I will graduate from college and seminary, be ordained, get married, have kids, pastor churches, have trouble, joy, pain, love, retirement, rest, illnesses, and loss. How much further do I have to travel, in stages of life that I cannot even fathom? While this blog will not go for the next 70 or 80 years, I hope for it to continue for some time. Therefore, I chose the name traveler. Not just because I traveled to Greece, but because I have quite a ways to travel in my life. Beyond just travelling in my life, I also have some traveling to do in my call. I am called to be a pastor, but calls tend to develop as time goes on. I don't know where God will lead me, and I have chosen traveler to say that I will travel wherever that is.

So I am a traveler, and will continue to be. What is the point if I stop traveling, stop growing and exploring and learning? Now you read about me traveling in Greece, when I get back...we'll see.

Friday, February 6, 2009

Aikido and Ancient Greece

I finally started aikido yesterday. I stayed for both classes, 2 hours. It was rough. I was absolutely exhausted upon return to my apartment. There was a bit of a language barrier, but that was the least of my problems. They stand and fall differently than we do in hapkido. The stance is a little bigger forward and back, and the front knee is more bent. The hands are held only waist high. Falling was the hardest thing for me to grasp. Rolling was exactly the same, except that they have another even simpler form of rolling that they made me do over and over where it emphasizes control of your body. You go over very slowly. But then they had me working with people who have been doing it for awhile while the other new person was still getting trained in rolling. Hapkido and Aikido are similar enough that I do not look like a beginner in many things, but different enough to greatly confuse me (like with falling). A lot of the locks are the same. I spent two hours yesterday getting thrown into a roll or a fall. Or doing the throwing. The only bad part was that they treat me like I am made of glass. They don't put any pressure on me so that I have to fall or roll or go around in a circle. They just expect me to do it. Whereas I watch them working together, and they are definitely using some force on each other. I wish they would take off the kid gloves and just do it.

I went to the National Archaeological Museum today. It was so cool. It was awe inspiring to be standing there among things that were formed ten thousand years ago. Some of the oldest man-made things we have today were there. I didn't see everything in the museum, because I got tired, but I can always go back. As a student I can get in free. I saw the really big kouros, which was much bigger than I expected, and many mansized ones. There were a lot more than I expected. I also saw artifacts from the neolithic period, the mask of Agammenmon, sone red figure pottery, and quite a bit else. I saw gold, bronze, clay, marble, and stone which had been worked throughout much of Greece's history. Some of the things I saw, I just stood and stared at, practically gaping. I saw things that most of us have only seen in pictures, and I didn't even see it all.

At about 1:40 I got on a trolley for my 20 minute ride back. 30 minutes later we had been stuck in traffic for 20 minutes. I was getting really annoyed, so I just got off and walked back. It took me 45 minutes to get back, but that was with stopping to buy a pastry and some more bus tickets. I figured out what was wrong with the traffic. There was a demonstration blocking one of the major roads. Quite annoying. Demonstrations are legal here, even at the expense of traffic, as long as they do not become violent. They were surrounded by police directing traffic elsewhere. This was the first demonstration I have seen. Now, I know where it is, so I just have to stay clear of it in case it becomes a riot. Sometimes that happens at the tail end of peaceful demonstrations. I have no idea what this one was about.

Next week, we have our first field trip. It is to Argolid/Mycenae/Nauplion and a few other places close by. One of the things we will see is the Lion's gate, which should be fascinating.

Kalispera!!

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Church and Children

So, I have done it again. I said yes. It is amazing what happens when you go to a church, open your mouth, and say that one little three letter word. Let me back up and tell you the story from the beginning. I went to St. Paul's for the second time on Sunday. I couple came up to me and the girl I was with during coffee hour. They are late twenties to 30 years old. They were told that they should introduce themselves to us, because they are American and we are American. It turns out that he is on a fellowship to work on his doctoral thesis about early Christianity and Corinth (with a few more details that I can't remember). She is in the process to ordination in the Presbyterian church. She got her M.Div at Boston University, and he got his last degree at Harvard. When she found out that I am going to be a pastor, she was very excited. We had some of a chat, and then she disappeared, presumably to choir practice. About ten minutes later, she comes running out and grabs me and says that she has a wonderful opportunity for me. She said that the children's program needs help. It would be a wonderful opportunity to work with immigrant children (most Anglican children in Greece are immigrants or children of immigrants). So I told her that last summer I worked as a children's director, and said "sure." Next thing I know, I am inside the church talking to a lady named Linda about the children's program. We planned to meet on Tuesday (yesterday) to discuss the children's program. So we met yesterday, over hot chocolate, and talked for 2 hours about the situation they are in. Basically, we need to get the families to bring their kids back, and we have to fight much adversity. You cannot walk from door to door, it all needs to be personal contact, or you will get arrested for proselatyzing. That is illegal. So, she informs me that my job is to figure out how we can get this going with a bang, get the families to bring in their kids, and keep them coming. I have until Sunday to figure this out, and two weeks from Sunday we want to start. Not much time, in a country where I do not yet know the culture. So, that is the challenge ahead of me. I could definitely use all your prayers. Hopefully, we will reach these families, and have the opportunity to teach their kids. Wish us luck.

So, I am still trying to get started on aikido. I don't think I have told you about this yet. I decided to do aikido in order to learn a new martial art and fill my evenings. So, I took a trolley there on Thursday. The sensai wasn't there, so I couldn't sign up. I sat and watched that day. I went back on Friday, met the sensai and filled out paperwork, but I needed to bring in a copy of my passport and two small pictures. I went back yesterday, so equipped, expecting to finally get started. However, my gii (the uniform) was not in yet, much to the sensai's chagrin. I also, expecting the gii, did not take sweat pants with me, so I could not get started. Hopefully (fingers crossed) my last class will end early today, like it has every other time, and I can get there in time to start tonight. Otherwise, tomorrow, I should finally start. Finally. It has been an ordeal.

Well, hopefully I will soon have a little more of Greece to tell you all about soon.

Yia sas!!!

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Observations on a Greek Class

So I was looking over my blog, and I realized that my description of my Homer class was sorely lacking. My professor, Raish (pronounced like race with a sh at the end), looks like the epitome of classicist. He wears a tweed jacket. Under that is a sweater vest over a button up shirt and tie. His gray hair is pushed up in front like he has been leaning on his hand over a particularly difficult bit of an obscure Greek philosopher. To top it all off, he has a British accent. He is actually an American, but he doesn't like to admit it. He went to school in Britain all the way through, starting with boarding school as a young boy. Most of my professors look the part of the classicist, but he is the best. When reading Homer, he reads along with the meter in a rolling way that could almost make you sea sick, but makes the text sound almost regal. He has no tact whatsoever. If you mess up he will say "No!! That is incorrect!! Why would you say that!! That sound like you have completely left the meter out!!" Or more of the kind.

Yesterday in class we had quite a few moments where we all had to laugh, but one in particular was priceless. We were translating a part where a man was begging for his life. He said that if he was taken alive, his father would provide a handsome ransom. When he is about to succeed, Agamemnon runs up and kills him and pulls out the ashen spear. Now, our professor asked what kind of condition the part about the ransom was written in. One guy said it was future less vivid. My prof. replied, "That is CORRECT!!" Then the student (Dan) continued, "Maybe if he had used future more vivid he would have been allowed to live." Musingly, he continued, "but then it probably would not have fit the meter." Dan concluded, "So this man had to die for the sake of meter." Of course we were all rolling with laughter. (Ancient Greek grammer jokes... maybe we are all nerds.)

[to my readers: If you did not understand that joke, don't worry, just consult your friendly neighborhood classicist. Failing that, just write it off as a bad job and accept that there must be something wrong with all those students in Greece.]

Well, I have seen a few more things while here. Today I watched as some motorcyclists drove along and at one point crossed themselves in prayer. Now, I have already heard that the reason for this is not a concern for their lives (though this concern is warranted on the crazy streets of Athens). The true reason is that every time they pass a church, they cross themselves. That is just what the Greek Orthodox do. So if you are ever in Greece and watch motorists or pedestrians crossing themselves, realize that the true reason is not to ask God's mercy in crossing the intersection alive.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Learning more

My two classes which you have not yet heard about are Ancient Greek:Homer, and Ancient Greek Myth and Religion. The latter seems like it will be boring so far. Of course, that could be because we spent our last class basically doing an overview of what I learned in Greek Civ last year.

Homer is difficult. So far we have had about 35 lines a night. That is actually less than I had last semester with New Testament, but it is new vocab and some new grammer. He does some strange conjugations and such. We are reading books 6 and 7 of the Iliad. The other Homer class is reading book 5. So far we are moving faster than the other class. There are 14 people in our class, so each person only gets to translate 2-3 lines per class period. That stinks a bit. None of us are used to that. The good thing is that we may not have tests. We will only have tests if he deems them necessary.

Sunday I found a church and went to St. Paul's Anglican church. It was very similar to what I am used to. The order of service and even the liturgy and identical tot eh United Methodist Church. The big differences are two. First, the sermon is very different from what I am used to. He really just talked about who Paul was and what he did. It was more like a lecture than a exhortation to live your life in a certain way. Little practical application is offered. The second difference was that they use wine in communion. I have only had wine a couple of times in communion, and then it was nasty and I was only given enough to wet my lips. With my limited experience, I think this was actually good wine. Also, they held the chalice for me and just kept tipping it, so it was swallow or get it all over myself. I got quite a gulp, and it made me light headed for about 10-15 minutes. It was really strange. I imagine I will get used to it over the semester.

A fun part was that they were celebrating the Feast of St. Paul's conversion. The priest kept talking about how Paul walked and taught and ate and worked within 15 minutes of where we sat. He preached nearby at the Aereopagus. The church was called St. Paul's Anglican Episcopal. The priest sends greetings to my home church... so Greetings Grace!!

It is time to head off to market, so as the Greeks say... yeia sou!! Good bye!!

Friday, January 23, 2009

Adventures in Athens

More fun in Athens has taken place after a few days. Trekking around Athens has brought many adventures.

A few days ago, in a wild search for a bank, Phoebe (one of my roommates) and I spent an hour and a half finding a bank that was 10 minutes from where we started. We walked down one road past men in short white skirts, long wool socks, and pom poms on their shoes (pictures will follow in a later post) guarding some buildings. We got to see the changing of the guards. It turns out those are young men fulfilling their military service in the tradition outfit of Greeks over 200 years ago. From there we walked a couple miles, realized we were going the wrong way, and found our way back to the banks. It was an adventure.

Yesterday after classes Phoebe and I went to the Acropolis and Aereopagus. Unfortunately we arrived too late to enter the Acropolis, but I got to touch one of the buildings on the Acropolis. We raced when we realized what we were standing beside. I also got a picture sitting on the Aereopagus near the summit where Paul would have converted many Athenians, including Dionysus. It was so cool!! Athens was so beautiful from that high up.

I also had my first truly Greek gyro, and it was unlike anything you can get in the US. It was absolutely amazing. One thing I have discovered is that restaurant owners or workers (I don't know which) will stand at the door and ask you to come in as you walk past. some of them get pretty insistent. They really want customers and they know that Americans eat at a different time than Greeks. Greeks eat dinner between 9 and 11 PM.

Classes started yesterday, as I already mentioned. I had Orthodox Church and Modern Greek. When my Orthodox Church professor walked in, my first reaction was "Is he wearing a dress?" Then I realized it was a robe and wondered if he was a monk. But I didn't know if the Greek Orthodox has monks. It turns out they do, but he wasn't a monk. Then I figured he was probably a priest. All of this took place within less than 30 seconds. The first thing he told us was that he is a Man in Black. Actually a priest. Orthodox priests just walk the city in black robes and beard and some wear a funny hat. I saw one yesterday with the hat. My professor is a parish priest. It promises to be a good class. One thing he is having us do is find a Greek Orthodox and ask them about their relation to the church and the religion. He said that people are more likely to talk to a stranger than a priest and he is using us for research!!! That way he can do more what the people want!! Through this class, I will definitely meet Greeks. Both through this interview and by going to a church service or two for class.

Modern Greek was also fun. The pronunciations are very different from Ancient Greek. Everybody in my class has done Ancient Greek, so my class is accellerated. We don't have to spend as much time on the alphabet, for example. We are all having trouble with the pronuciation differences. We are moving pretty fast and it is a little overwhelming, but it is fun. The worst part will be switching back and forth between ancient and Modern Greek pronunciations each day I have both classes. Make it even more confusing.

This afternoon I have Ancient Greek:Homer and Acient Greek Mythology and Religion. I got my books for the latter class and I am reading the Odyssey and the Iliad. So I am reading Homer in English and Greek. Interesting overlap.

I met a guy who is in three of my classes who attends Notre Dame and I am meeting many other people as well. My roommates, Meghan and Phoebe, are very nice and we all do Ancient Greek. Meghan is also reading Homer this semester, but in a different section, and we are all in the accellerated Modern Greek. It is helpful to have us all with the same interests. We think that must have been planned.

Well, I am off to class. We have a hike tomorrow. See you all later!! yia sas!!!

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Arrival

Study abroad has begun.

After just under 24 hours in airports or on plane, I finally made it to my apartment. That was three plane trips. At least the entire time, there were people to talk to. Every plane had a significant group of study abroad students going all over Europe. My final plane which went to Athens with about 60 of us heading to the same program.

Arrival in Greece was not without its problems. One of my suitcases apparently decided to stay behind in London, so it took quite awhile to stand in line to report the problem. After doing that, and discovering that I should get my luggage today...the big group of us left that area to find together the lady holding a sign for our group. Then we discovered that we all had to wait for the two or three approved cabs to the apartments...two people at a time. That took quite awhile. It was amazing riding in the cab looking at Athens. Absolutely beautiful. Our cab driver spoke no English but was enjoying herself teaching us Greek.

After setting up at the apartment, we headed to the academic center. I can see the Acropolis from the balcony! We then sat for an hour and a half waiting for the people to call us back to meet. By 7:30, we started to look for food. By 8:30, we managed to find the market to buy some food, and discovered that there are no fruits and vegetables in the market. You have to go to the farmer's market for that. Eventually we found our way back to the apartment in the dark.

Today, the only things on the schedule are picking up books at our allotted times and the presidential inauguration. Hopefully I will get to do some sightseeing soon. I will be sure to let everybody know about that when it happens. Classes start Thursday, and orientation is tomorrow.